Installation Instructions for Firefighter Vinyl Decals

1. Air and application temperature should be above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Best results are obtained between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Make sure the surface is dry and clean from all dirt, dust, oil, and grease. Even if you think it’s clean, it’s probably not. Avoid using cleaner that might leave a residue. Denatured alcohol does a good job just be sure to test a small unnoticeable area to make sure it does not harm the surface.

3. Place the decal into the desired position on that nice clean surface. You should be able to look thru the transfer tape covering the decal and read the lettering when it's in the right orientation. Use a short strip of tape to tape the long edge of the decal to the surface.

4. Flip the decal over the tape and peel off the backing. Hold the decal flat and peel the backing off the decal. Avoid getting fingers in the adhesive.

5. Carefully flip the decal back over the taped edge and smooth it lightly into position starting with the taped edge and working across the decal. Note the face of the decal is still covered with the transfer tape at this point. Take your time with this step and make sure the decal is in the proper position before moving to the next step. If you have not laid it smoothly onto the surface and you have not yet pressed it down firmly, you can try tugging it off the surface with short, quick jerks then re-lay it. If you tug it and the transfer tape comes away from the decal you cannot remove it without destroying the decal.

6. Rub the face of the decal through the transfer tape with a squeegee, the edge of a book, or other stiff object to force the adhesive into contact with the surface. Avoid metal or sharp edges that might tear thru the decal. Rub the entire surface of the decal to force out any air pockets. If you can't get them all don't worry, you can get them later.

7. Once the decal has been firmly rubbed onto the surface, peel up one corner of the transfer tape and pull it off the decal at a sharp angle. Avoid pulling straight away from the surface. Pull the tape back on itself as close to the surface as possible. It sticks fairly tight so you'll have to pull pretty hard but if you've thoroughly rubbed the decal onto the surface in step 5 you won't have any trouble pulling the transfer tape off the decal. If you notice an edge of the decal coming up with the tape, stop pulling, push the tape and decal back onto the surface and rub that part with the squeegee a little more. Then try again.

8. If there are any air bubbles still under the decal you can usually work the larger ones out just by pressing them with your fingers towards an edge. This will be easier if you use a piece of soft cloth wrapped around your finger or the squeegee. Don’t use the squeegee or you may tear the vinyl. If the bubbles are really stubborn just use a straight pin to puncture the bubble 4 or 5 times (it won’t harm the decal) then rub it out with your fingers. You can ignore tiny bubbles. They'll usually go away by themselves in a few weeks.


Removal Instructions for Vinyl Decals

Use a scraper or your fingernail to lift one corner of the decal. Be careful that whatever you use for this does not damage the surface. If you’ve mounted the decal on a car window you can use a razor blade scraper to lift the edge. Depending on how long the decal has been in place you can probably just grab the raised edge and peel it off. If it’s stubborn try warming it with a hair dryer or a heat gun to soften the adhesive. Just be careful not to scorch the decal, the surface, or yourself.




Do not apply this film on:

- Walls
- Corrugated or highly irregular surfaces
- Substrates with compound curves
- Substrates that do not have a clean, smooth surface or have poor paint-to-substrate adhesion
- Stainless steel
- FRP with a Tedlar® coating
- Flexible substrates
• Paint that is not thoroughly cured or dried.
• Low surface energy substrates (some plastics, powder-coated paints, etc.)